Visitors to Orvieto walk the streets and wonder why there are so many signs telling passersby to move from one to the other sidewalk (if there is one). Sudden indications of a one-way street, leave the visitors unsure in which direction to turn their car and whether they can get around the upcoming corner. Really, I would tell them if they asked, you shouldn’t even attempt to navigate the streets of medieval towns meant, if anything, for a different style of life. After all, there’s always parking outside the city walls.
My mind goes to Calvino and Thecla, one of his fantastic and fabulous Invisible Cities. Much like the counterparts of his city of Thecla, today’s visitors, after leaving their cars where they should, make their way to the top of the plateau. It doesn’t take long to realize it is a city to be discovered on foot, as they start asking themselves why the aspect of so many facades can only be guessed at, hidden behind metal tubes that are either being put up or taken down, plank fences, screens, scaffoldings, metal armatures. They may wonder what the aim of this city, eternally under construction, is. They search for an answer, for a blueprint. Calvino, if asked, would tell them that the answer was up in the galaxy of stars.
Yet why, they ask, is construction apparently going on forever. Thecla’s answer for Calvino was to keep destruction at bay.
Our city too does its best to keep destruction at bay. Thanks to tax bonuses and subsidies the heart of Orvieto continues to beat, albeit with the aid of these “pacemakers”. Visitors continue to flood the veins and arteries of the city. Some will self-medicate by walking kilometers, up vale and down, to the neighboring, more obstruction-free, hamlets.
The remedy though can be found in the town itself if we learn to follow in the footsteps of the town walker. In his wanderings every day through the lanes and alleys of Orvieto, he ferrets out unnoticed aspects, ignored by most. He strikes up friendships for a day or so, that will persist when he returns the following year. Orvieto is the city where he comes to roost after his other exploratory outings. Orvieto is the city he delights in sharing as he documents his daily activities. One wonders what he will come up with next as we admonish others to follow his example so that they too can discover the real heart of the city.
Erika Bizzarri 
I love walking the streets of Orvieto at 6am and 11pm. It’s great for my soul and my camera. I have many pictures to comfort me until my return next April. Thank you Erika. Jim Ludwick
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Dear Erika; Very nice, thank you. We left Orvieto today by train (which was delayed). Now suffocating in Rome wishing I was still in Orvieto.
Until I return, Mike
Mike Shaughnessy – 707 Corbett Ave. San Francisco, CA 94131-1332 Mobile iPhone: 415-694-1771
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Yes, walking this town never changing/ ever changing town is exhilarating for me. Each time I visit, by now over 50+ times, I find something not noticed before. Or I notice the sameness of another corner, another unchanged spot and am comforted by the familiarity. Graziella, Erika, for keeping us interested.
Cheryl
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Wow, I am jealous that you have visited over 50 times. That’s incredible. It’s only been five times for me to date. Now I’m looking forward to my next visit.
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♥️♥️
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I don’t know Orvieto (sadly) but I am wholly persuaded! And I know that you are right about the way in which a visitor should linger in the streets and niches of a medieval city, and come back to explore them further. The modern tourist too often wizzes about in a vehicle – gets a broad overview – checks off the highlights on a list – buys a souvenir – and fails completely to soak up the atmosphere or respond to the city’s invitation to come in, sit down, relax and become acquainted.
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Very well said. I feel that someday you will know Orvieto. I hope you do soon.
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My wife and I loved Orvieto so much that we have bought a home there. It will take a year to renovate but should be a real gem when completed. We hope to live full time in Orvieto soon. We have made so many friends and absolutely love the charm of Orvieto. All you guys have said is true, early and late walks, watching the clouds roll through the valleys, the combination of young and old residents, the little shops and the most fabulous restaurants, all within walking distance. Big box stores a short train always and the most amazing towns close by What’s not to love. Bob Warren, Lancaster, PA.
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Congratulations to you both for now owning a home and beautiful Orvieto. I agree with everything you said about it. The people there are number one. So amazing is this place up on the hill.
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i love this! It feels very much like my own experiences, wandering the lanes and alleyways and always finding my way back to the magnificent Duomo, San Giovenale and the Baptistery. See you soon! James Ii
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Isn’t it wonderful
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Guess towns, cities are living manifestations and thus require the periodic upkeep and interventions, as do our own bodies, to maintain their function and appeal.
All too often they are neglected and we suffer the consequences.
ATTILLA.
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