While from my house,
I could once walk on my own two legs
down that cobblestone road
called Tamburino,
immortalized in Brockedon’s
early 19th-century guide,
with a view of the town
in the distance,
these days I need three, as in the sphinx’s riddle.
But since even that,
as things go now,
has become too precarious,
I can only do so,
remembering.
My walk begins
where the old Roman,
and then medieval,
way is cut across
by an unpaved dirt track
just below the reservoir
that provides the city with water.
Two large cement blocks partially
block the passageway
so that only the narrowest of cars
can slip through
and use it as a shortcut.
Sparse grass grows up
between the cobbles.
A misstep on that uneven trail
can bring you to your knees
although it soon becomes a road
with houses on the right.
One of the first is that of a former mayor.
At times, in passing,
one can hear
the sounds of a piano tuning up.
The uncurtained window,
reaching to the ground,
reveals piles of enticing books.
Water constantly trickles into
the large tub right across the way,
offering my dog a welcome drink.

Above, on the electric lines
doves line up, notes of an autumn song.
Further on a bush with star-shaped yellow blossoms
hangs gracefully down over a wall.
Behind it, the small lawn is sometimes plowed up
by a night-time visit of a boar
rooting there for who knows what
much to the chagrin of the owner.
The large tree overshadowing the way
is a corbezzolo or strawberry tree
and I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a large one
elsewhere. The red fruits,
belying their prickly aspect,
lie scattered on the road.
Still further down a man is hoeing
his rows of beans and tomatoes.
We exchange greetings
and he hands me a few ripe red tomatoes.

On the left the road branches off,
into a dirt pathway with a few fig trees,
proffering their sweet and sticky fruit.
Right above is the Girarrosto
where we have had our
Santo Stefano in Agosto dinners
offered by Carolina.
Still further down, on the left,
a bench sits under a tree
inviting sitters
to rest their tired feet.
The road here branches off, moving up
past carefully tended vegetable gardens
to the back door of the cemetery
where a small chapel with a menorah
above the doorway
stands outside the entrance.
The former convent set against the cemetery wall
now houses students
who go off each day to dig in the past.
No danger that the inmates
on the other side will bother them.
It is after all a cemetery.
The small piazza fills at given times
with cats, and more cats,
of all colors,
waiting for their daily handouts.
On the road that leads to the highway,
an easier route for anyone coming fram the town,
there are more cats, administered to by a man
who has become their guardian angel
in memory of a son he lost.
Back down along the cobbled road
past what, judging from an apse,
was once a church.
It was never finished
for the road it was meant to flank
was moved over to another site.
Its marble doorway now graces
a church in town.
On the left further down,
before reaching the bar,
are troughs where the housewives
used to wash their laundry.
They still contain water
but sheets are no longer
beaten clean on those stones.
Tamburino ends here at Bar Obelix,
coffee, cigarettes, bus tickets,
the site of a love story
where a Scotsman drew his love
close and kissed her
to the applause of those
taking a coffee break from work.
The small building down below the bridge
that crosses what used to be a stream
serves as a hangout for young people.
It goes by the name of Tamburino.
On festivities votary candles in aluminum pans
are set along the low wall.
It will be up to some good-hearted soul
to clear them away the following day
as Tamburino gives way to Gabelletta.
A wonderful timeless thread of lives, lives and monuments. Thank you- each walk in this special corner of the world has a thousand rich stories to share.
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Thank you for letting me join you on this walk that I’ve heard you and Annie mention. Because I recognize a few landmarks (like the corbezzo that you gave Jim for his birthday) the scene feels both familiar and not. I especially like the details and photographs you have chosen. Ditto for these words:
“The former convent set against the cemetery wall
now houses students
who go off each day to dig in the past.”
Grazie for this rich glimpse of the life cycle.
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Oops! I’m not sure how to stop being anonymous. I think I need to remember to state in my comment that I’m Diane. Anyway, the previous comment is mine.
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How many times over the years of our friendship have I walked the Tamburino, from the point at which the road leads off to the left toward Erika’s villa, all the way to the Gabelletta and even up to the Porta Romana? How lovely to imagine it again with you as my guide!
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from James II
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A lovely description, Erika. Over here in England I feel I could accompany you along this cobbled way and recognise the features. I wonder, do those wild boar ever turn up in daylight hours? I bet the cats do.
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Thank you Erika for this special memory walk. I have just plotted it out on my map and will do this walk on my next stay in Orvieto this June!!!! See you then, Mike Shaughnessy
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Will you walk with me?
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